Donatello's: Thick, soggy, overdone

The gorgonzola ravioli ($7). Photo by

Ever

since Chef Tony Hanslits' outstanding Tavola Di Tosa closed almost a

decade ago, the benchmark for Italian restaurants in this town has dropped

precipitously. It's almost as if that great establishment and its sister market

never existed. I love Italian food, but, based on a number of recent

experiences at local eateries, I get the distinct impression that locally the

genre has regressed back to 1950's post-war America. Things have evolved a bit

beyond the checked tablecloths and raffia-wrapped chianti

bottle candlesticks, but I have so far yet to find a restaurant here that even

pays lip service to modern Italian gastronomy.

With

local chefs constantly pushing the envelope of Midwestern cuisine through their

insistence on better ingredients from local sources,

why can't the Italian restaurants seem to recognize the diversity of nature's

generosity right here on our own doorstep?

Patrick

Aasen made quite a name for himself as chef and owner

of Arturo's Italian restaurant at 86th Street and Keystone Avenue.

The food was well-prepared and enjoyed a lightness of touch that elevated it

from the everyday. His new venture in the increasingly fashionable Arts

District of downtown Carmel unfortunately displays none of his former flair.

Located in a tiny storefront, Donatello's promises a classically romantic and

intimate atmosphere. The carpeted floor, however, reminds one of an office

space, and the otherwise unbuffered acoustics make

conversation a chore at times. On a recent visit, service was frustratingly

tortuous and uncoordinated, particularly toward the end of the meal, when such

things tend to matter the most.

I'm

saving the food for last, almost because it seemed to be a bit of an

afterthought itself. Following our server's suggestions, we chose the

gorgonzola ravioli ($7), three large stuffed parcels served in a dense and

stunningly clogging cheese sauce. I was expecting something lighter and more

delicate, like a velouté, perhaps, but this sauce was

so thick, it was hard to comfortably finish the dish. In spite of its

name, the one flavor lacking, however, was gorgonzola. A daily special of pasta

e fagiole soup ($5) was well-prepared and suitably

fresh tasting.

Of

our two main courses, the spaghetti carbonara ($16),

a simple classic which should be an effortless ace in the hole, was marred by

the inclusion of strongly-flavored onions. There is no place for onions in this

kind of sauce, so the dish went largely uneaten, a fact unnoticed by our

server. The second main course, another simple classic, veal parmesan ($20) was

soggy and overdone, as if it had sat too long in its own juices.

Although

the prices aren't exactly egregious, I really would expect more from a

restaurant of this pedigree in this location.

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