Grape Sense: Cooking with wine 

click to enlarge Michael Ruhlman
  • Michael Ruhlman

So much fuss is made over pairing wine and food the home cook may not think of wine as an asset in flavoring their dishes.

Michael Ruhlman, one of American's most prolific and authoritative food authors, said wine can be used as a great marinade. Ruhlman, known for his 18 books and appearances on the Food Network and with Anthony Bourdain on the Travel Channel, made a recent brief visit to Indiana.

The Cleveland native said one of the most important rules is an old one. "Always use a wine that you would feel comfortable drinking," he said. "But not a Chateau Margaux (very expensive French wine). You don't want to throw that in a pot of stew; use a drinkable, affordable wine."

"I like to add it in the beginning when the alcohol tends to burn off faster. I always add it first at the first de-glazing or adding of the liquid ingredients."

Ruhlman has written books with some of the country's top chefs.. His big career break came when he had the opportunity to help Thomas Keller, chef at The French Laundry in Napa, write The French Laundry Cookbook. The iconic wine country restaurant has long been considered one of the country's best.

"I learned this from Thomas Keller," Ruhlman said. "People often like to put wines in marinades but the alcohol in marinades will actually de-nature the exterior of the protein and prevent any flavors from entering the meat. You're not really helping the meat; in fact, you're helping the outside become slightly mushy by marinating in wine.

"What I learned from Keller is that if you're going to use wine, and it's a great thing to marinate with, cook off the alcohol first then add the aromatics. Add the onions, carrots, and thyme or whatever you want. Throw in the pepper and some salt so that it steeps and cooks then flame it and make sure you can't get any flame. Once the alcohol is cooked off then you have this really tasty fluid to marinate your meat."

Howard W. Hewitt, Crawfordsville, writes every other week for 20 Midwestern newspapers. Read his wine blog at: www.redforme.blogspot.com


Latest in Markets + Cooking


Subscribe to this thread:

Add a comment


Reader Reviews

  • India Bistro
    My husband and I had heard some good things about this little restaurant. It's hidden…
  • Tantrum Indianapolis
    That comment sounds like its Mel, John, Deb,or Ashley. Tantrum lounge is AMAZING!!! Absolutely love…
  • Jimmy B's
    food is okay but a big NO on weekend nights...scary patrons and dangerous neighborhood

© 2015 NUVO | Website powered by Foundation