BoomBozz's pizza is boss 

click to enlarge A veritable smorgasbord of BoomBozz offerings. - MARK LEE
  • A veritable smorgasbord of BoomBozz offerings.
  • Mark Lee

The first Indiana outpost of a small Kentucky-based chain, BoomBozz Taphouse offers a broad range of pizzas and the best selection of locally-brewed craft beers north of 96th Street. Occupying the former location of a Mongolian BBQ joint that's been renovated into a bright, modern space, BoomBozz doesn’t try to be all things to all people, offering instead a succinct and well-thought out menu of pizzas, sandwiches and salads, as well as a handful of pub-style appetizers and a couple of desserts.

Pizzas come in three sizes and an almost infinite array of toppings if you choose to build your own. Proprietary offerings are divided into four kinds: "Famous Creations," "Calzones," "Classic Favorites" and "Old-World Style," as well as a 17” New-York style for $14.99 plus toppings. Bases are either thin crust, traditional or whole wheat. Subsequent to our visit, I discovered that one of these, the Pollotate (chicken and potatoes) had been named "Best Kentucky Pizza" by Food Network Magazine. What is it about Kentucky and chicken, I wonder?

Stopping in recently for a quick lunch, my wife and I opted for a medium-sized “side-by-side” from the "Famous Creations" section: effectively two pizzas in one for $15.99. Half was topped with fresh spinach and a tomato cream sauce, while the other was finished with prosciutto, artichokes and portabella mushrooms. In spite of being a bit of a mash-up, this was a delicious pizza, the crust firm and slightly chewy, nicely puffed up at the edges and quite capable of supporting the generous toppings. The tomato sauce had a pleasant acidic bite to it while the various cheeses (mozzarella, asiago and romano) formed properly molten pools.

Having begun the meal with three rounds of not terribly successful soft pretzels (the first hard as bullets and the second still frozen), we were pleasantly surprised by the quality of this pizza and were equally pleased with our other main course, the Cuban sandwich for $8.19. Although not especially authentic, this was served on excellent crusty bread and presented a nice balance between savory roast pork and sweetly tangy banana peppers with a touch of cilantro.

In addition to an excellent selection of beers from Sun King (including seasonal brews), Flat 12 and Upland, amongst others, BoomBozz features a couple of ales brewed specially for the restaurant. Patrons can keep up with the latest offerings on the restaurant’s Facebook page.

As a brief afterthought: enjoyable as our dining experience may have been, thanks in no small part to our excellent server, it was almost irredeemably marred by the proximity of an employee who insisted on sitting at the next table and, in a penetrating voice, calling in his produce orders on his cell phone. He should've known better.

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