The more expensive a restaurant, the more disappointing it is when it fails to live up to expectations. 14 West says its focus is on fresh, seasonal and local ingredients wherever possible, prepared simply. So what to make of a delicious-looking (on paper, at least) rack of lamb, sourced locally in Australia, transported halfway around the world then carelessly burnt on the grill to an unnecessary degree? Or the lobster macaroni and cheese (sourced, respectively, from the ocean, Italy and, perhaps, Wisconsin) that's a bit of a sad affair: the lobster grainy and stringy, the cheese curdled, the whole thing watery and separated? Alas, our most recent visit to 14 West disappointed on many levels.
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