When sushi was available only in chic restaurants, the idea of a “meal” of raw fish and rice with a whiff of vinegar was fodder for ridicule and lampoon — the punch line to Johnny Carson’s “Carnac” questions or the inspiration for Saturday Night Live skits. Those of us in the Midwest who grew up eating our steaks — heck, even our vegetables — well-done could only imagine that alien class of effete eaters frivolous enough to put such unconventional “food” on their tongues.

Who could have predicted that almost every grocery store from Boise to Bowling Green would have a case of sushi made fresh daily, sometimes by a sushi chef on staff? Most Americans can easily identify the ingredients of a California roll; few people even squirm any more at the idea of uncooked salmon or crab. Even stalwart establishments like steakhouses and family-friendly chains now serve at least a couple of sushi-inspired appetizers.

Here in the Hoosier state, the preeminence of the trend has been remarkable. IndyEthnicFood.com currently lists 32 restaurants serving Japanese cuisine — at least some of it, presumably, sushi — everywhere from Avon to Fishers. Countless other restaurants, from Asian buffets to food court snack shops, make it clear that sushi’s appeal is no longer just to a rarified elite.

No one should be surprised, then, that a new sushi restaurant has turned up just outside of I-465 in Greenwood. That it’s the real deal, without pretense or gimmick, in a spiffy storefront with artfully frosted windows is promising. That it’s crowded, even on weeknights, after a few weeks in business is evidence this fad has entered even suburbanites’ culinary routines.

Not to be confused with Ichiban Noodles on Bash Road up north, Ichiban, which translates as “Number One,” is a Southside original, elegantly appointed with modest upscale aspirations. Because it’s quite small, however, it’s hard to get away from your fellow diners. More often than not, you’ll get a hearty greeting from Sammy, the head sushi chef, when you enter. You may feel conspicuous; soon enough, you’ll feel welcomed. Sit at the bar if you want to watch Sammy work his magic or express his tastes in beer (he favors Budweiser to Japanese beer). If you don’t want to be a part of your neighbors’ conversations, request a booth or table. Two washitsu rooms, though raised above the restaurant floor rather than sunken below, offer a more traditional, fun experience where diners can doff their footwear and feel at home.

Service at Ichiban can be inconsistent and frantic. While cooked items arrived quickly and requests were met swiftly, sushi took longer, and it was unclear who exactly was our server. On a second visit, our sushi order lagged so far behind other items that our waitress actually suggested we cancel it. Never could more than four or five employees be seen attending to customers. Whether Ichiban anticipated such business so soon, more attention would definitely be in keeping with its overall atmosphere.

Among appetizers, both flavorful pork-stuffed gyoza ($4.75) and deep-fried tofu ($3.95) weren’t greasy and had a homemade quality to them. Tako su ($4.50), marinated octopus, was utterly fresh and tender with a citrus tang of ponzu sauce — definitely an impressive starter. Straightforward sushi such as beautiful sea scallops ($4) and gorgeous scarlet-tipped surf clams ($3.50) were quite fresh.

Maki rolls, while wearing some cute names like the “Y2K Roll” or “Crazy Roll,” largely avoid goofy pandering to American apprehensions. Ichiban assumes diners know what sushi is. The signature Ichiban roll ($9.50) is one of the lighter, more delicate rolls you’ll find in town, wrapped in salmon and red snapper rather than nori (seaweed paper). A chili-flavored sauce isn’t exactly for the timid palate. The H.K. roll ($12.95), by contrast, promised a lot of different flavor and texture with three fish, “crunchy avocado” and three sauces. While also quite spicy from an artful grid of creamy sauces, this was a little too soft, even mushy, with only a slight pop from wasabi-flavored roe. Simpler rolls like the spicy soft shell crab ($7.50) and toasted eel ($4.50) actually were rolled better and offered more texture.

While sushi dominates, the kitchen does offer classic Japanese favorites like teriyaki, tempura and noodles. Pan-fried soba noodles with beef ($9) had plenty of tender beef but didn’t really pack much flavor. Perhaps the most impressively festive dish is sukiyaki ($20 for two). At Ichiban, this familiar dish arrived in a huge cast-iron pan with a steamy broth swimming with tender beef, cabbage, onions, creamy tofu, tender enoki mushrooms and fat udon noodles. A single, un-cracked egg in a bowl accompanied. Our waitress cracked the egg, as well as a smile, and declared, “Sauce!” We smiled back and dove into a most authentic dish that had made its way across the miles — and the centuries — to Indy’s Southside.

Ichiban
8265 U.S. 31 South
317-883-1888

HOURS:
Monday-Thursday: 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; 5-9 p.m.
Friday-Saturday: 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m.
Sunday: noon-2:30 p.m.; 5-9 p.m.

Food : 3.5 Stars
Atmosphere : 3.5 Stars
Service : 3 Stars