Vegetable canard roller, $12
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Parisian with potential
by Jennifer Litz Feb 20, 2008
Bistro de Paris fills an upscale niche on Carmel's West Main Street
Carmel’s recently revamped West Main Street has achieved that pulled-together, eclectic artsy vibe reminiscent of rich districts in international cities. So it was natural that an upscale restaurant hailing from an international city would occupy the former Pizza King on 9 W. Main St.
Bistro de Paris is the latest Caribbean-flavored endeavor of Chef Kathy Jones (formerly of Island Café and Cobblestone Grill, currently of Decadent by Design). The menu has been presented in other write-ups as African-American-influenced French, conjuring odd conjectures: croque-monsieur with candied yam frites? Duck confit and collard greens? No. There is no soul food on this menu. (Nor, for that matter, any croque-monsieurs.)
Co-owner Kama Fily does hail from Mali, a former French colony in West Africa. But mostly, the bistro’s extensive menu blends savory-sweet island flavors with French favorites. And Jones’ jonesing for seafood: There is an entire Menu de l’Ocean aside from the brunch, lunch, dinner and hors d’oeuvres offerings.
Jones’ crab cakes, which have appeared in her previous ventures, apparently have a following. Here, the Famous Bistro Jumbo Lump Crab Cakes ($15) are interpreted with yucca “mash” and plantains, served with island butter sauce.The grayish crabmeat isn’t the star in this casserole, but rather the layers of savory-sweet textures. The crisp, salt-touched plantains against the yucca mash and sweet, smooth butter sauce nearly eclipse the mealy crabmeat. Everything together is quite good.
Textures seem to be one of the restaurant’s preoccupations. The grilled brie ($11) is mild and creamy, given delightful form with a firm walnut crust. I would have found the appetizer perfect if not for a slightly perceptible burned flavor to the grilled nuts. That trait also plagued the BBQ Saumon Vegetable ($22), which had a bit of a bitter aftertaste, though the culprit — charring — provided a nice crust to the tender salmon. But extra points go to this dish for its tangy, perfectly pitched apple cider soy reduction and crisp veggies.
The four menus offer almost too much terrain to cover. But Jones’ Menu de l’Ocean is not to be missed, if only for its items’ freshness. (Jones cut her culinary teeth on seafood; she was only a teen when she became a seafood prep cook at Chez Rondelet in Florida.) The menu includes everything from conch ceviche, to escargots, to a potato blini ($13) with lumpfish caviar. The latter could become a menu flagship, simply for the thick lumpfish’s decadence, which sits atop a fluffy fried pancake of airy whipped potato.
Despite the seafood’s overall freshness, there were some discordant notes: The seared tuna ($13), for example, came with a flat, overly chili-powdered avocado “salsa” that did little to complement the fish. The Pacific Rim scallops ($14), brushed with honey ginger sauce and served on the half shell, are good — if you don’t get a bit of grainy shell or sand in your bite.
As for the traditional French offerings: They’re most apparent during Sunday brunch, which includes a starter item and entrée for $20. The menu includes everything from crepes to scrambled egg wraps infused with different fraises and confits. The Bistro Benedicts are served on toasted brioche bread with poached eggs and leek caper Hollondaise sauce.
Admittedly, I have not been to the bistro for breakfast. The closest I have come to its Parisian cuisine was the vegetable canard roller — a nouveau egg roll stuffed with duck confit and julienned vegetables. I couldn’t really taste the duck confit.
French wines comprise about half of the bistro’s extensive wine list. The beer list,though no hardcopy menu exists yet, isn’t half-bad, either: I spotted a bottle of Chicago-brewed Goose Island beer on my last visit.
Bistro de Paris fills a vacancy on the Main Street strip in Carmel. The menu is ambitious. There’s a red rose on each cream tablecloth, and large, eclectic art pieces throughout the eatery. The food is pretty good. If you’ve got a palate for French fusion food, you might be satisfied —or not quite bowled over. Yet.
Bistro de Paris
9 W. Main St., Carmel
317-844-7270
HOURS
Lunch: Monday-Saturday, 11 a.m.-2 p.m.;
Dinner: Monday-Thursday, 5-9:30 p.m.
Dinner: Friday-Saturday, 5-10:30 p.m.
Brunch: Sunday, 10:30 a.m.-2 p.m.
Dinner on Sunday: 5-9 p.m.
Food: Three and a half stars
Atmosphere: four stars
Service: Four and a half stars
Recommended dishes: Famous Bistro Lump Crab Cakes, potato blini, brie chaud
Comments on Parisian with potential
by whiney | Apr 24, 2008
If they answered and said Bistro de Paree, I would not dine there. Get over yourself.
Of course the review is off the mark, it's Nuvo. Everytime I open this publication there's a new rant about chewing gum. Lame.
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Bistro
by Tyler G | Apr 8, 2008
If anything new in Carmel is said to be less than perfect then the shills are called in to destroy the messenger. The last two times I drove by the restaurant on a weekday evening there was only one table occupied each time so maybe the jury has rendered its verdict.
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Bistro de Paris or Bistro de Paree?
by Francophile | Mar 26, 2008
I have just made a reservation to try out the new place that everyone is talking about. The polite young lady who answered the phone with a "Bistro de Paris (pronounced as spelt) Good evening". Surely the people who work there would know the proper pronounciation and refer to it as Bistro de Paree ? Not an auspicious start! We'll see how the food is .
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losers
by losers | Mar 1, 2008
It's ENTREE, people. You complain about the reporter, and then you can't even spell a simple 5 letter word?
Besides, it appears that all of these glowing reviews have been written by the same person, such as the owner. The wording is almost identical in abut 6 of them.
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Review
by Dave and Sandy | Feb 26, 2008
Our experience was very close to the reviewer's experience. Service was suprisingly good for a new restaurant. The food was very good but not what we would consider excellent for the price. We're R Bistro fans and will most likely continue to be. Our visit to Bistro de Paris did not change our loyalties to R Bistro.
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nice summary
by Jack | Feb 21, 2008
couldn't agree more on the seared tuna and, overall, the food was good but not great for the price point...however, it shows a lot of promise and is definitely worth a try
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a different take
by Gourmet Greyhound | Feb 21, 2008
http://winecanine.com/2008/02/bistro-de-paris-opens.html
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make a reservation
by Maria | Feb 21, 2008
I do agree that everyone is entitled to their own opinion, however, the opinion of a critic should have evidence to lay its claim. This article doesn't seem to maintain a level of accuracy, therefore, makes it hard for me to trust the words when pertaining to the food critique.
My husband and I had a wonderful dining experience on Valentine's Day. Of course there are things they need to work on, but what new establishment doesn't. I recommend this restaurant to all, and perhaps a second tasting Miss Lizt...of an entre.
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Try it For Yourself
by Jennifer | Feb 20, 2008
Every one is entitled to his or her own opinion, and mine is that this good food has even greater potential, especially at its price point.
As for the comment about the spelling of Kamafily's name, forgive me. I got that spelling verbatim from Chef Kathy Jones; we must have had a misunderstanding. Another verbatim from Jones--that the food is Caribbean inspired ("Floribbean" is her trademark).
Opinions run strong on this one. I encourage everyone to visit Bistro de
Paris (the address is good) and form their own.
--Jennifer Litz
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Bad reporter
by Tom | Feb 20, 2008
bad reporter
the address of the place is wrong
the food rating is wrong i give it a five star, best of Indy.
Try it.
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the best food i've ever had
by john carmel | Feb 20, 2008
Some of these comments were so wrong I don't know what to say.
First the tablecloths are with not creamy, and the owner chef Kamafily name wrong on the article, and they don't have any Caribbean-flavored item on the menu did she even read the menu?
The food was really the best try the surf and turf (Yukon gold and veal) or the bison and the purple potatoes for app try the best crab cake ever from the chef himself.
Last course we had la crème brullee
And my wife and I are still talking about that.
We really recommend bistro.
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Bistro de Paris article inaccuracies
by Recent Diner | Feb 20, 2008
Miss Litz's article leads me to ponder if she actually dined at the same restaurant we did because the Surf and Turf and Filet at Bistro de Paris were absolutely divine and unlike any I have experience on this continent or abroad; moreover, the food was much higher than her 3.5 rating. Bistro de Paris can certainly hold their own with the likes of the Glass Chimney et al.
Also, in the spirit of responsible journalism, we met the owner on Valentine's Day; his name is spelled Kamafily (one word, not two) Sissoko; the table cloths are clearly white, NOT cream; they serve brunch, NOT breakfast. As a responsible journalist, attention to detail is crucial for overall creditability; therefore, she should strive for accuracy in ALL aspects of her reporting.
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can't wait to try it
by John T | Feb 20, 2008
My wife and I want to make reservations later this week. We can't wait to try it.
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food was amazing
by Juliet | Feb 20, 2008
I'm not exactly sure where all the negativity is coming from either. We ate at Bistro de Paris on opening night and the food couldn't have been any better.
Did she even try an entre?
I highly recommend Bistro. Don't wait to check it out.
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Food
by Carmel Dave | Feb 20, 2008
I'm not sure what she had, but we ate at Bistro de Paris and the food was excellent.
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