Noux place for Cajun in the neighborhouxd
by Terry Kirts Aug 22, 2007
Papa Roux brings home-style Cajun dishes (and wit) to Indy’s Eastside
In classic French cuisine, a roux is a sauce base of basically equal parts fat and starch that has its roots in the word for “red” or “browned.” You can’t have a milk gravy or that chipped beef on toast without one. Translated into American regional cooking by folks of French heritage along the Gulf Coast, it forms the backbone of all manner of Creole and Bayou dishes from jambalayas to étouffées. Only in this country does a roux realize all of its possible hues from blond to a brown that’s dangerously close to burnt, an almost mystical achievement of the most skilled of roux makers.
Or, it’s a funny spelling of the “oo” sound to use in lots of jokes around the gumbo shop. Which is exactly what you’ll get when you step into the n“oux”est and coziest neighborhood eatery in the vicinity of 10th and Post. The friendly folks at Papa Roux, which just about six weeks ago opened in the gutted former home of Emmanuel’s Heavenly Chef, wish “youx” a good “afternouxn” and point diners toward the “loux” (also labeled “Le Restroom”). The humor doesn’t stop in the signage. Fridays are “Foux Man Choux Day,” where anyone sporting the stereotypical facial hair (even a fake one penciled on) can get a free beverage.
But there’s no joking when it comes to the cuisine, and owners Art Bouvier and Colleene Kenna are very serious about the traditional Cajun dishes they’re serving up at their first restaurant endeavor. “Restaurant” is a bit of a loose term here, however, as a good deal of the business at this homey lunch counter is carryout, and the whole place, even the menu, is, as the owners admit, a work in progress. Right now, you never know quite what will be on the steam table when you stop in, from sausage and chicken stew to shrimp Creole, though you can be sure most of it will be tasty. Helping Bouvier and Kenna with their “experiment” are Paul and Allison Willock, who help make this one of the friendliest places where you’ll eat lunch on the whole Eastside. Most days, it’s Paul who will direct you toward the choices for your lunch or take-home dinner.
Cajun cuisine isn’t exactly “new,” however you spell it. Paul Prudhomme introduced it to the wider country in the late ’70s, and plenty of earlier restaurants have made it accessible to local diners. But there’s new interest in authentic Cajun eats in the wake of Hurricane Katrina, and Bouvier and Kenna, who moved up from New Orleans in 2000, are taking a somewhat more home-style and purist approach to the cuisine. Seasoning is straightforward and simple; dishes taste like what they’re made of (albeit with a good deal of butter), not needless secret spices or overpowering hot sauces.
Probably the most interesting dish they’ve offered so far is jambalaya “maïs lisse” or creamy grits with crawfish and one of the most balanced buttery sauces you’ll find at any Cajun eatery. For big, sloppy and delicious, the sausage po’ boy ($5.50) with red beans and coleslaw is probably the best bargain on the menu, though most dishes hover in the $6.50 vicinity for a regular portion with one side. Chicken and sausage stew is just as billed, served over rice, though a more aggressive spicing might make this just a tad more interesting. Slow-cooked pork chops come with some of the most expertly cooked firm but tender red beans you’ll find. Shrimp Creole has one of the richer, deeper flavors, and shrimp gumbo might benefit from a few more constituent ingredients, though it’s a soothing, warm dish of the sort your neighbor down the road would bring to a community gathering (if you lived, say, in Baton Rouge).
Sides are part of the work in progress that one hopes will change over time. Cornbread is a little overly crumbly, though tasty enough, and coleslaw is a bit runny and lacking much tang. Packaged cups of applesauce or pudding are the only other offerings right now. Bread pudding, once a side but now a dessert, is much more to the pudding side than you might imagine. Served cold, this thick, sweet concoction is definitely more at home at the meal’s end than next to your gumbo.
By fall, the folks at Papa Roux hope to spiff up the dining room a bit — it’s pretty much an outdoor patio indoors right now — and to regularize the menu to eliminate the guesswork. So, if you’ve got a favorite Cajun dish, stop in now to vote for it on the main menu. Just remember to draw on a moustache if it’s a Friday. And to spell everything with an “oux.”
Papa Roux
8950 E. 10th St.
317-603-9861
Hours
Lunch: Tuesday - Saturday
Dinnerr: 11a.m. - 8p.m.
Food: Three stars
Atmosphere: Two and a half stars
Service: Three stars
Nonsmoking
Recommended dishes: Jambalaya grits, sausage po’ boy, shrimp Creole, bread pudding
Comments on Noux place for Cajun in the neighborhouxd
by Samantha Giggens | Apr 15, 2008
not so good yats is more exspensive but the taste is much better, the owner (Art)? kinda annoyed us trying to talk to us almost the whole meal, i mean we went there to enjoy our own company not get to know the owner of that resturant, we will not be back, the bread pudding was good needed a little more sauce and it would have been perfect. he has good deals on saturdays i give him that. the wall of fame is kinda cheesy. i rate it one star
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gumbo not so good
by Brian Stergus - Indianapolis | Jan 27, 2008
shrimp gumbo not so tasty bland to my taste... Kind of ghetto "wall of fame" if you will... people sign on this wall?? if i wanted to see grafiti I would go to the projects. Kids behind the counter and in the kitchen?? did they wash there hands? Makes me wonder about cross contamintation. and if these people couldnt get a babysitter. prices are ok, combo comes with a free drink. I give them 1 1/2 stars, much need for improvement.
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no goodnawlins
by yuck to papa | Jan 15, 2008
worst food i have ever tasted,bland and lots of sodium added! yats here we come, at least your building will be clean. this dump no comparison! to you! wheres the state department when you need them?
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The real stuff....
by Andy C. | Sep 22, 2007
Being a native of Louisiana my heart still goes out to those affected by Katrina years ago, including my family. Every cloud has a silver lining though. This tragedy has brought beautiful people and their authentic Louisiana style food to Indiana. Since moving here over 16 years ago, I'm always looking for the real stuff. I've found it at Papa Roux's. If you're from Louisiana or just like true, cajun food, you'll get it every time here.
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Know your cajun food
by Anonymous | Sep 19, 2007
Scubachef, What you are missing is the knowledge of knowing the Louisiana Crawfish season. It is a "good thing"there are no crawfish in his kitchen as crawfish are out of season at this time. Frozen crawfish is just not good eats. When the supply is coming from the gulf waters then waiting for fresh is the only way to go.
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by SCUBAchef | Sep 4, 2007
"Arthur assured me there is neither butter nor crawfish in his kitchen"
Huh? Is that somehow considered a GOOD thing? Cajun without crawfish? Am I missing something?
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NUVO actually works
by Tim (1st time caller) | Aug 29, 2007
While eating my usual lunch of pizza and salad, I read the NUVO restaurant rewiew on Papa Roux. After overcoming the shock of realizing that a 42 year old man can find something of use in NUVO, I was cravin' some canjun. Finally!!! Real canjun food in Indy and on the eastside of all places. If you don't believe me, check it out yourselves.
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Butter and Crawfish?
by Chef Carl | Aug 25, 2007
I love the food and the folks at Papa Roux. I especially love that the kitchen is SPOTLESS! I've sampled a bit of everything, but my favorite things on the menu are the sausage po-boy and the bread pudding. Bread pudding as a side dish may take some getting used to for some Hoosiers, but not for folks who know real southern cooking. Like the person who commented earlier, I was surprised about the butter comment. I was worried that my palate was off, but Arthur assured me there is neither butter nor crawfish in his kitchen.
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Disappointed
by East-sider | Aug 24, 2007
As restaurant desperate east-siders,we were hopeful, but what a disappointment. Watery, bland, and overpriced. Guess we'll still be making the drive to Yats.
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Papa Roux
by J Carter | Aug 23, 2007
I made a drive to the eastside to check out Papa Roux’s yesterday and it was well worth the trip. The atmosphere was fun, the service outstanding and the food . . .well the food was so much better than I expected. A lot of people say they do Cajun, but very few really do it authentically. If I had closed my eyes when I tasted the bread pudding I could have sworn I was in Pascagoula Mississippi eating my Mama Hattie’s bread pudding. It’s sweet [it’s supposed to be] w/subtle spices that bloom on your palate like good wine. The cornbread was very good and very southern [no Jiffy mix for them]. The coleslaw was fresh flavored and made from scratch. I had red beans & rice, shrimp etouffe and pork and chicken in a bread boat. Yeah, I know that’s a lot of food, but when you’re homesick it really helps. The really great part is I got lagniappe w/out having to ask for it. I’m going back today for a ½ pan of bread pudding. Papa Roux is the best thing to happen to Indy in a long time. By the way, I was assured by Art Bouvier that he does not use butter in his roux and in fact doesn’t have it in his kitchen. I kind of like butter, but I couldn’t tell the difference in taste between butter and vegetable oil. For casual dining I would give Papa Roux 5 stars.
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Roux Croux Rouxls
by Who's Your Papa Roux? | Aug 23, 2007
I don't know what buttery they are talking about in the Jambalaya grits. They great! The bread pudding is delicious. Eating in the dining area is recommended. Art and his Roux Croux are related to Ghandi. How they work so long and hard but always seem like they just got off the couch from watching tv in a good mood. The chili should be ordered loaded with jalapenos, cheese and sour cream. I don't much see the point not having it spiced up. The hot sauce is on the counter to the right of the register. Don't forget to check out the Roux Loux in the back. The sign is fun just to read. If service and atmosphere here is 2.5 - 3 stars then Indianapolis has never heard of 4 or 5 star dining then. I have ate at the Eagles Nest in the Hyatt and I get far quicker service with Papa Roux. The food was a better value not to mention.
I can't eat there as much as I would like but it is a regular spot now. For what I would spend I would choose Papa Roux over any fast food place any day of the week.
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Yummy food at Papa Roux
by Jody H. | Aug 23, 2007
I am a regular (my fiance, too!) of Papa Roux and the food is great! Couldn't meet friendlier folk. Great hospitality! They just opened Mid-July 2007 and are making changes & improvements as they grow into their new business and space. They care about their community and serving people the best food.
Keep your eye on Papa Roux as they continue to grow and gain knowledge with each passing week. They are planning to have a great fall line up.
They have a variety of "meal deals." Their food is made from family recipe's. So I ask you "How much would you pay for Mom's or Grandma's home cooking?" Some might say it's priceless. Either way, you get delicious food that leaves you feeling satisfied, but you know you want to come back and eat again to try another dish or to get your favorite dish over and over and over and over....again.
Like the bread pudding, it's simply awesome!!!!
See ya'll at Papa Roux
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