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Food
The fastest food on the frontier
by Terry Kirts
Feb 2, 2005

Food
An old home for new Mexican cuisine
by Terry Kirts
Dec 20, 2006

Food
There’s something in the water
by Terry Kirts
Feb 7, 2007

Food
Ceding our fates — and plates — to the staff
by Terry Kirts
Oct 31, 2007

Where the sun never sets
by Terry Kirts Mar 23, 2005

Dining through the years at El Sol de Tala

Almost a decade ago, when I was new to town and still acclimating myself to a surprisingly rich culinary climate, the first authentic Mexican restaurant I visited was El Sol. This was before many of the places on East Washington had sprung up, and driving to this hole-in-the-wall joint seemed even more like heading into a macabre little district on the wrong side of the tracks. Limos topped with crowing roosters and pigs in tuxedos leered at diners from a parking lot across Washington. A psychedelic Cinco de Mayo parade threatened to break out at any moment right there on the street.

Birria de Chivo ($10.95) had too much of a thin sauce, but tender shreds of goat meat made a wonderful filling for corn tortillas, and beans weren't short on flavor.

In the dimly lit, cramped storefront, only a few tables spread with florid vinyl tablecloths welcomed diners. But the menu at El Sol taught this one-day food critic and timid gringo some important lessons about authentic Mexican food: that seafood could be “cooked” with just lime juice, that goat was more than a pleasant alternative to beef and that not all Mexican dishes were topped with melted cheese. Many of the dishes here weren’t even that spicy — unless you threw on some hot sauce or salsa. This was stick-to-your-ribs, south-of-the-border, working people’s food — hearty and delicious. My favorite dishes then were the huaxtla ($9.95), thick tortillas stuffed with potatoes and meat, and the pork chops ($9.95), simmered in a tomatillo and cayenne pepper sauce, a far cry from the taco nights we had back in rural Illinois. Later, El Sol would expand into more welcoming digs. High ceilings would be strung with colorful banners. Mariachi bands would appear occasionally, and the place would generally take on more of a feel of owner Javier Amezcua’s hometown of Tala, Mexico, near Guadalajara. Over the years, I have appreciated the consistency of the food at El Sol and the friendliness of the staff. Anyone who has had the guacamole here has certainly been wooed by this luscious dip, slightly chunky and made fresh with plenty of avocados, some spices and little else. Sure, El Sol now has some strong competition from taquerias and “fresh” Mexican joints around the city, and a healthy debate continues among Mexican lovers about just where you can get the best tacos and burritos in town. But El Sol has a 25-year history in its favor. You don’t stay in business that long unless you’re doing something right. About two years ago, Amezcua figured his food was ready to head downtown to feed the masses of tourists, shoppers and bar crawlers passing through the city every day. So, he rented a roomy corner of Union Station and set up shop a little farther west. You might think that with the Mexican Consulate next door and a whole string of night clubs up the street that this location would do a brisk business, but Amezcua hasn’t seen the return on his investment he’d hoped for. Is it the dearth of street parking or the secluded location? Is it the garish, over-the-top décor? Maybe the ghost-like spirit of the practically deserted Union Station, a Bermuda Triangle for commerce over the last decade? Even with a bustling clientele, the over 6,500 square feet that Amezcua rents would still look a little vacant. But he’s determined, hoping some new lunch specials and expanded hours will pack in the crowds. On a recent visit, a trio of the specials was displayed just outside the door of the restaurant, including more Americanized dishes, like chimichangas and a massive taco salad — stuff I could have easily found 10 years ago. Inside, a modest crowd seemed to be enjoying themselves and their food. A leisurely lunch, then, came with a side of nostalgia. Tamales ($5.95), sadly not served in the husks, were light and fluffy with plenty of pork and almost no grease lingering on the plate. Birría de chivo ($10.95) had too much of a thin sauce, but tender shreds of goat meat made a wonderful filling for corn tortillas, and beans weren’t short on flavor. Cocula ($10.95) offered a straightforward trio of steak tacos with minimal accompaniments of beans, rice and a Mexican salad with anejo cheese. Flan ($4.75) has always been a little inconsistent at El Sol. But where else can you get this custard flavored with pecan, coconut or chocolate? Rather than the typical inverted dessert with a pool of dark caramel, the flan at El Sol is quite solid, often a little grainy — as it was on this visit. Some outdated flyers announced the place would be open 24 hours on weekends and that they would offer “San Antonio-style” breakfasts. But a call revealed these changes had already been discontinued. “No one showed up,” the woman on the phone lamented. News like this falls hard on the ears of those who learned to love authentic Mexican food at this beloved restaurant. But they haven’t closed yet. Here’s hoping the ebbing tides of culinary tastes won’t keep El Sol from shining for another 25 years.

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