Open it, and the customers will come

Sometimes a restaurant emerges from a bold vision, a desire to corner a market, to spark a new trend or make a fast buck. Other times, it happens more by chance, perhaps simply because the fates conspire to make it possible. The former might cause more of a splash or turn more heads. But the latter often has the staying power and charm to bring customers to it and earn their long-term patronage.

Salads are generous but not overdone, mixing the same high-quality ingredients with homemade dressings.

Take Café @ Ray, the new storefront eatery that’s injected a ray of light into the Meridian corridor south of downtown. Open since last September at the corner of Meridian and Ray streets, this place is derived from an uncanny convergence of elements: a legendary family of restaurateurs hoping to expand its culinary reach, a historic neighborhood aching for a bit more life, a city lacking good markets for Greek foods and coffees and a 19th century storefront oozing with potential. Add to that a friendship with one of Indy’s most creative chefs, Richard Cottance, formerly of Panache Bistro and Chalkie’s, and, well, there were too many reasons not to open this place.

The chemistry that resulted from this union is, indeed, enchanting. Just step into this high-ceilinged brick wonder of a turn-of-the-century building, and you’ll be transported in space and time. A rustic patio out back could be any in New York or San Francisco. The Stergiopoulos family, owners of Greek Islands Restaurant up the street, have put a lot of sweat into this place. Angela Stergiopoulos, chef at Greek Islands, has taken on the dual responsibilities of overseeing aspects at both locations. But the extra work doesn’t seem to faze her — she handles her duties with an intoxicating charisma. She knows most customers by name.

On a recent Friday lunch, the place was bustling, and tables were high commodities. A few diners weary of winter insisted on sitting outside — even though they hadn’t officially opened the patio. Service was by committee, with Angela herself delivering several dishes and drink refills.

The lunch menu, while concise, offers only the highest quality items — everything from Chef Richard’s famous soups, available for takeout, to homemade dressings to sandwiches and salads with superb meats and cheeses, including the double-smoked bacon from nearby Klemm’s Meats. A number of combos and sampler plates offer a variety of the kitchen’s fresh offerings.

Among soups ($2.75/cup), the roasted tomato basil was a great vegetarian elixir that maximizes the sweet, deep flavor of plum tomatoes by slow roasting them. A good amount of basil and garlic added a nice aromatic undertone. Clam chowder, the soup of the day, had a good amount of clams and wasn’t overwhelmed by heavy cream.

The Big G ($8.75), the signature sandwich, was everything the menu claimed and then some. Warm, chewy ciabatta bread came piled with salami, ham, turkey, roast beef, provolone and a few strips of Klemm’s bacon. A condiment-shy member of our party asked for no mayo, but with a tangy, sweet balsamic vinaigrette, it didn’t need it. Slightly warm, with the smoky provolone just barely melted, this made for a hefty, delicious lunch — one to take half home with you.

Salads are generous but not overdone, mixing the same high-quality ingredients with homemade dressings, such as a Dijon-tarragon vinaigrette and a citrus-shagbark dressing with hickory syrup. The California chicken salad ($7.75) brought together some super fresh items in good measure: sliced white-meat chicken, pristine greens, avocado and bright red tomatoes and peppers. A knot of alfalfa sprouts and bits of chèvre topped the mix. The chicken was slightly dry, but the citrus dressing brought everything together and made this a delicious, healthy lunch.

A return trip for jazz and dessert on a Tuesday night found the place considerably more ambient — and dark — with just a few candles shimmering in the spacious dining room.

A small, spirited crowd — locals, already loyal customers, and fans of Gregg Bacon’s smooth jazz — helped make the atmosphere inviting. While we expected only the lunch menu, we were surprised by a well-edited but diverse dinner menu. With everything from Provençale vegetable crêpes stuffed with summer squash to pan-fried grouper with spicy slaw and three stellar desserts, the short list of offerings proved this place was no run-of-the-mill coffeehouse, that Cottance was up to his old tricks.

Fruity herbal tea came in colorful little pots, and our waiter quickly refilled them as we drank down our cups. But the real highlight was a napoleon of apples, pecans and raisins with caramel sauce ($5). Warm sautéed apples and thin sheets of puff pastry provided a beguilingly satisfying nightcap. As we lingered, Angela’s gregarious brother George, another fixture, told us that business has been up. One customer even eats there every day. In such a comforting space — and with such delicious, thoughtful dishes — it’s not hard to see why.

Café @ RAY
946 S. Meridian St.
636-2233

HOURS
Monday, 6:30 Am.-3 p.m.
TUESDAY, 6:30 Am.-9 p.m.
WEDNESDAY-Saturday, 6:30 Am.-3 p.m.

Food : 4 Stars
Atmosphere : 4 Stars
Service : 4 Stars