Markets & Cooking

Monday, August 29, 2011

Dig-IN: Gastronauts delight in Sunday festival

Posted by on Mon, Aug 29, 2011 at 12:29 PM

With a blistering summer behind us, and an equally brutal week still to come, the weather gods must have been feeling kindly this weekend when they bestowed an almost perfect day on the Moto GP and our favorite food event, Dig-IN, held at White River State Park.

Eighty degrees, sunny and dry was the order of the day as five thousand hungry gastronauts strolled the grassy thoroughfares of this, the second iteration in what looks set to become an institution on the culinary calendar.

With thirty restaurants and an equal number of wineries and breweries displaying their wares, there was plenty to eat and drink. Another couple of dozen artisan vendors rounded things out, offering a vast array of gustatory delights, from maple syrup to bread to lamb and everything in between.

With the attendance as vast as it was, there were naturally some long lines. Longest of all was for Aaron Butts of Joseph Decuis, an Indiana destination restaurant that food lovers should visit at least once. Almost as long was the wait for Tallent’s restaurant from Bloomington, but there seemed to be few, if any complaints about any delays. Lines moved smoothly as hungry punters enjoyed the beautiful day.

Surprisingly, the shortest waits of all were for the beer and wine tents, which is no reflection at all on the generally high quality of the various offerings. In all, a great event, and an excellent introduction to Indiana’s culinary delights.

Slideshow
Dig-IN 2011 (Slideshow)
Dig-IN 2011 (Slideshow) Dig-IN 2011 (Slideshow) Dig-IN 2011 (Slideshow) Dig-IN 2011 (Slideshow) Dig-IN 2011 (Slideshow) Dig-IN 2011 (Slideshow) Dig-IN 2011 (Slideshow) Dig-IN 2011 (Slideshow)

Dig-IN 2011 (Slideshow)

Sunday's Dig-IN event at White River State Park featured 31 restaurants, numerous wineries, artisan farmers, craft brewers and more.

By Kelley Jordan

Click to View 17 slides

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Slideshow: Dig-IN 2011

Posted by on Mon, Aug 29, 2011 at 11:50 AM

Click here to check out Neil Charles' review of Dig-IN 2011.

Slideshow
Dig-IN 2011 (Slideshow)
Dig-IN 2011 (Slideshow) Dig-IN 2011 (Slideshow) Dig-IN 2011 (Slideshow) Dig-IN 2011 (Slideshow) Dig-IN 2011 (Slideshow) Dig-IN 2011 (Slideshow) Dig-IN 2011 (Slideshow) Dig-IN 2011 (Slideshow)

Dig-IN 2011 (Slideshow)

Sunday's Dig-IN event at White River State Park featured 31 restaurants, numerous wineries, artisan farmers, craft brewers and more.

By Kelley Jordan

Click to View 17 slides

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Wednesday, August 18, 2010

Going Local Week, Sept. 5-11

Posted by on Wed, Aug 18, 2010 at 3:41 PM

Going Local Week, Sept. 5-11

With the plethora of big grocery stores and chain restaurants in Central Indiana, I know as well as anyone how easy it is to overlook the wealth of local produce in Indiana. I promise you, there’s great food grown right here! Sometimes you just need an excuse to make a change for the better. Hey, what better time to make a change than the annual Going Local Week (Sept 5-11).

Started by Indy food blogger Victoria Wessler in 2008, Going Local challenges Hoosiers to include locally grown ingredients in every meal for one week.

Participating won’t just boost our local economy (although that’s a great incentive in itself!). Locally grown, seasonal foods spend less time in the transition between being harvested and being sold, so they tend to be of better quality and flavor. Because transportation and preservation expenses are lower than produce from out of state, local fare tends to be less expensive, too. And Going Local Week can also be a wonderful opportunity just to try new recipes and appreciate Indiana as the wellspring of culinary offerings it really is.

I only recently started buying local foods on a regular basis and while it can seem like a challenging task at first, there are numerous opportunities around the city to buy and eat local foods. Farmer’s Markets are abundant throughout the summer and fall and can be found all over Indianapolis and the surrounding areas.

For those more apt at tasting dishes than cooking them, many restaurants in the area are proud to buy from local purveyors. Eating at those establishments encourages other restaurants to do the same. Some nearby farms even give tours to the public. It’s a great way to teach families about where food comes from.

For a listing of farmer’s markets near you, recipes featuring Indiana produce and information on the Going Local campaign, go to www.goinglocal-info.com. NUVO readers, enjoy the bounty of fall in Indiana and participate in Going Local with me!

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Thursday, August 5, 2010

Upcoming fundraisers to aid ailing farmer

Posted by on Thu, Aug 5, 2010 at 1:11 PM

Funk and daughter Laila
  • From Seldom Seen Farm site
  • Funk and daughter Laila
This story is about roots in every sense of the word: vegetable, community, musical. Kelly Funk, co-owner of the 50-acre vegetable, flower and herb farm Seldom Seen Farm with her husband John Ferree, was struck by lightning last month while working in her fields. According to the farm's blog, Funk spent weeks in the Methodist Hospital ICU before being moved to a long-term acute care facility.

Ferree explains in the most recent post: "She is making small steps toward becoming more aware although she is not yet responding to requests from the doctors, therapists or family on what she should do. (Those of you who know Kelly well realize that Kelly has never been one to immediately respond to these types of requests.)"

Funk and Ferree were familiar to attendees of the Broad Ripple Farmers Market, where the two offered their wares every Saturday, and the Indy Winter Farmers Market. The couple has two children.

As one might expect, small-scale farmers usually don't have substantial medical benefits. So the farming and music community is putting on a couple shows to help raise money for Funk's medical costs.

The first event comes Friday, Aug. 6, from 5 p.m. at Traders Point Creamery. Chad Mills has organized what he's calling his "Album Release Party Version 2.0," following on a release show earlier this year at Birdy's for his album "Make the Door." He and openers Cara Jean Wahlers and Grover Parido will donate the entirety of the door and any CD sales to the Kelly Funk Memorial Funk.

And the second is a benefit dinner hosted by Slow Food Indy to take place Aug. 22 from 2 p.m. The menu includes lobster, mussels and corn on the cob, and the cost is $75 per person.

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Thursday, May 13, 2010

Sexier charcuterie

Posted by on Thu, May 13, 2010 at 1:24 PM

Too hot to handle.
  • Courtesy Goose the Market
  • Too hot to handle.
When I first got to Indy three years ago, I opened Nuvo to read about an enchanting place that sold pb&j pate sandwiches. It was a place called Goose the Market, and it wasn’t a complete fairy tale, because it was real.

They killed off the pb&j pate before I could get there. But when Goose’s informal enoteca opens in early(ish) June, perhaps I’ll see it again.

Now, countless restaurants around the nation have used the term “enoteca” to push everything from yuppie small plates to bastardized Italian, but the term has its roots in small Italian wine stores that often sampled their drink and some food.

In her almost 10-year-old tome on the enoteca with the namesake title, food writer Joyce Goldstein helps sharpen the focus and origin of the Roman concept:





“Today, the term osteria or locanda refers to a casual establishment serving wine and food, sometimes at communal tables, usually in the countryside or in small towns. The enoteca is the urban counterpart, offering wines and sometimes food but in an even more abbreviated setting: no rooms to let, often no kitchen, and maybe a few tables.”

This is Goose’s enoteca.

Owner Chris Eley says the slightly converted downstairs will feature communal seating benches made of reclaimed wood and a makeshift bar embellished with the same material, enough to fit twenty-something people who get there first. More importantly, it will sample some of the charcuterie, olives and meatstuffs the place is known for — plus some edgier, smaller batch stuff that will only go downtstairs. And when it’s gone down there, it’s gone.

Besides the regular pig-heavy forcemeats of pates, sausages and rilletes, no small serving of good protein will be excluded. There will be fresh, crudo-style fish. And slippery, melt-in-your-mouth lardo, pure Indiana hog back fat cured in-house with truffle salt, fresh thyme, orange peel and coriander. And the moist, meaty preparation of tartare. And the slurpin’-good richness that is bone marrow. Too wash it all down, the space will feature six wines and six beers by the glass. Find something else in the retail space you’d like to open? You can do it, for what I’m told will be a miniscule (but legal!!!) corking fee.

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Tuesday, May 4, 2010

Non-naturalized Cinco de Mayo recipes

Posted by on Tue, May 4, 2010 at 11:27 PM

Avocado Margarita image courtesy Aldacos website
  • Avocado margarita image courtesy Aldaco's website
My Twitter friend Matt asked me what there was to do around Indy for Cinco de Mayo. I said nothin’. And I’m sticking to it.

Sure, you can spill over the sides of La Piedad’s deck, drinking crappy Corona and eating desiccated fajitas, or you can go to Adobo and maybe get some drink specials on a weirdly spiced Michelada or the same old Mexican import beer. But remember, the Mexicans objected to French colonization, not necessarily their good taste.

Honestly, you’re better off having your own party. And not with the same ol’ margaritas, either. It’s time y’all learned how to make some other Mexican drinks.

So here are a couple of recipes I’ve gleaned from South American cooking stars. First up: Iliana de la Vega, the local foods champion and thus Alice Waters of Mexico City, now a teacher of the Culinary Institute of American in San Antonio. Her Cocktail Donaji is a traditional recipe long enjoyed in her native country.

The less traditional recipe comes from Blanca Aldaco, a dear friend of mine. Born in Jalisco, the birthplace of tequila, she owns some smashingly successful restaurants in Texas. Don’t green at the sound of an avocado margarita; it’s sweet, but not cloyingly so. More like a margarita milkshake.

RECIPES:

*
Cocktail Donají
Iliana de la Vega
Serves 1

1 sal de gusanitos (chile and worms flavored salt; Saraga might have)
1 oz. of mezcal
2 oz. freshly squeezed Orange Juice
½ oz. Grenadine
1 oz. slice orange

Frost the rim of a Margarita or martini glass with the sal de gusanitos. Mix the mezcal with the orange juice. Reserve. Place ice cubes in glass, and pour the mescal-orange mixture to the top of the ice. Carefully add the grenadine to the glass (this should go to the bottom).

Garnish with orange slice.

Continue reading »

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Wednesday, April 21, 2010

LEEKED! Kentuckiana edition

Posted by on Wed, Apr 21, 2010 at 8:51 PM

Ice Bar: Okay for cold beer, better for turd doodles
  • Ice Bar: Okay for cold beer, better for turd doodles
You (probably) have never heard of it before, but Tony Boombozz is a well-established pizzeria in Lousville, Kentucky. Its newer taphouse concept is coming to Indy soon, 'round U.S. 31 and 146th.

My brief review: The pizza, or the brief example I tasted of it, is a bit underwhelming. I shared a chicken artichoke pie with some coworkers. Now, I don't remember the item's exact menu description, but it should have also said, "… and a shit-ton of cumin, which renders the rest irrelevant."

The beer lineup was decent, though. Bonus: They had Dogfish Head 75 minute. Yes, they made that up by blending the 60 and 90 minute brews — but hey, it was $4.25. BBC's Bourbon Barrel stout was on tap, too. Double bonus. We could use more BBC in Indy.

The can leave the Red Stag back in 'Tucky, though. See it tucked inside that bar-top snowman? That's part of The Ice Bar. Supposedly, that strip of ice you see is designed to keep your beer frosty. Or, the bottom of it. That's good, because you don't want the rest of your big, tasty beer taste-bud-numbingly cold.

But it looks cool. Most importantly, it offers a blank canvas for finger-doodling drunkards.

In other news, StarTribune.com reported that Landry's Restaurants announced it will buy The Oceanaire chain out of bankruptcy. Landry's owns a bunch of upscale seafood restaurants like Chart House and Muer, but it also owns Rainforest Cafe.

I asked Ryan T. Nelson, chef at our local Oceanaire, what the acquisition might mean immediately for his restaurant's menu and makeup, he said he couldn't comment. I guess we'll see.

Finally, restaurateur/master of the Twitterverse Scott Wise has a sweet deal for his artistic Twitter followers. Earlier this week he put up a tweet offering free food and drinks for a year to the winner of a Thr3e Wise Men Brewing Company logo contest.

Time to whip out my design skillz. Fourthmeal, here I come.

AND REALLY FINALLY, no Kentuckiana blog would be complete a week before The Derby without a recipe for a great mint julep. So here's the recipe, with notes, from the best mixologist in the city, Zach Wilks:

As with any cocktail, balance is the key. Too much mint or simple syrup can really detract from the finished product. So here is how I do it. Always start with best ingredients available to you. I'm all about Kentucky Vintage Bourbon right now, and since it's for derby it's a good one to use. So fill a shaker with ice, pour in 2.5 oz of Kentucky Vintage, .5 Tbsp. of simple syrup and 10 nice size very fresh mint leaves. Shake the hell out of it and strain over fresh ice in a highball glass. Or, if you want to get real traditional, serve in a pewter or silver cup. Garnish with a fresh sprig of mint! I don't muddle my mint in this drink because it tends to over intensify the mint flavor, the bourbon is the real standout here. So let the ice do the bruising of the mint inside your shaker.

To see the latest progress on his upcoming Ball & Biscuit on Mass Ave, become his friend on Facebook!

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Wednesday, April 14, 2010

LEEKED! The Bacon Edition

Posted by on Wed, Apr 14, 2010 at 10:16 AM

The KFC Double Down
  • Courtesy KFC
  • The KFC Double Down
*All the rage in food news this week is KFC’s new Double Down, which is a bacon and cheese sandwich. Yawn, right? Nope — the sandwich is enveloped by two fat, fried chicken patties instead of a bun. Thing looks like a hash brown eating a BLT.

The sandwich “plopped” Monday at most KFCs. "Getcha some!" like Paula Deen would say, and she has expressed excitement over the new culinary … something.

*Meanwhile, former Euphoria mixologist Zach Wilks has given me his bacon-infused bourbon recipe, which he’ll use to make something like his ol' Hamhattans when he opens his new pre-prohibition cocktail bar, Ball & Biscuit, with Trevor Belden in June on Mass Ave. Former Euphoria executive chef Brad Gates will provide small, French-inspired plates, and Wilks said the place will feature boutique wines and local craft beer, besides some from specific U.S. regions.

But the real focus will be his hand-crafted cocktails, like the Sazerac, Old Fashioned, and Gin Fizzes he wowed me with at his previous post.

Without further ado, the Hamhattan-come-“Bacon Infused Bourbon Manhattan” recipe, which Wilks sent to me via e-mail:

The Bacon Infused Bourbon Manhattan

Bacon-infused Kentucky Vintage whiskey (about 2 oz.), sweet vermouth (1/2 oz.), and a dash of blood orange bitters.

“That’s it?” I replied. Then he gave me the goods on infusing your whiskey:

Cook one pound of your favorite bacon — I prefer thick-cut applewood smoked bacon for this — and make a delicious BLT with the bacon [ed. note: NOT ALL OF IT, save some for a garnish]. This gives the bacon fat time enough to cool, so you can pour it into one bottle of Kentucky Vintage whiskey. Let the whiskey fat mixture sit in a warm place for 12 hours, and then freeze. All of the fat will freeze on top of the whiskey and can easily be removed with a spoon. All that's left is to strain through a cheese cloth until clear, and enjoy.

*Feel like eating some bacon now? Goose the Market has jowl bacon, the cheek-sourced bacon used to make Guanciale. Do yourself a favor: Eat it in Italian recipes, but don’t look at pictures of it being aged.

If you fry it up like you would regular bacon, you have a rich, cheap soul food treat. Eat it with eggs, put it in your beans to flavor them, or munch it alone.

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Friday, April 9, 2010

Homemade tortillas: The lazy man's bread

Posted by on Fri, Apr 9, 2010 at 6:04 PM

Camarero! Camarero! Theres a virgin on my tort.
  • By El Rio
  • Camarero! Camarero! There's a virgin on my tort.
What separates most American home cooks from professionals is often a lack of technique. From proper knife skills to the ability to whip up some pate a choux batter, many from-scratch tasks seem out of reach for we who feed our obliging families at no upcharge.

There's little reason for this timidity, other than a lack of knowledge. Some things, like making a good chicken stock from scratch, are relatively easy, but time consuming. Other things are quick. Like making homemade tortillas.

So I'm going to show you how. Because tacos are the lazy man's sandwich. Make some of these babies ahead of time and put 'em in the fridge, then throw in any sort of grilled meat, veggies and salsa, and people will call you guero in no time.

Quick homemade tortillas

The directions are right on the package, but just to assure you how easy it is make tortillas, I'll give you a brief overview so you actually get to Saraga or Whole Foods on 86th to buy the corn masa flour.

You'll need:

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Tuesday, April 6, 2010

Kitchen for rent (really)

Posted by on Tue, Apr 6, 2010 at 5:36 PM

Indys Kitchen will be for rent by-the-hour soon.
  • Indy's Kitchen will be for rent by-the-hour soon.
I have a solution for all you home cooks hard up for money. Come the summer, you too can achieve baking stardom like the local chefs of The Flying Cupcake or The Hot Cookie.

Unless you’re planning to exchange your consumable goods for Monopoly money, Indy’s Kitchen will allow you instant access to the licensed kitchen the Board of Health requires you to cook in commercially.

So far, William Powell, co-owner, says people have already signed up to use the kitchen-by-the-hour once it opens sometime in May or early June.

The space could have myriad uses: farmers market food preparation, catering space, baking. You can even rent storage rack space so you don’t have to haul your ingredients back and forth.

The kitchen has two full commercial kitchens with a shared cleanup area. One kitchen is more suited to catering setup and one is more for pastry-making. The catering kitchen has a 10-burner range with two ovens underneath, a deep fryer, food processor, mixer and more. Giant worktables are available, too.

But what excites me most is the possibility for tasting events. Powell says there’s a rentable dining room as well, so if someone wanted to have, say, a chef dinner, they could do it there.

Powell is owner of Monon Coffee Company, my favorite coffee shop in all the land. A mini version of the coffee shop will operate from 6 a.m. to 10 a.m., Monday through Friday. Cause let’s face it: Who wants to cook that early without coffee?

Info:

Indy’s Kitchen
317.690.9089
2442 Central Ave.
Indianapolis, 46205
http://www.indyskitchen.com/

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