
Food and drink aren’t the only things on the menu at this Sunday’s Dig-IN event at White River State Park. Leaders from the Indiana food community will be on hand to speak about a cornucopia of culinary topics.
Scott Hutcheson, economic development expert at Purdue, and Christine Barbour, IU professor and co-director of Slow Food Bloomington, will be at Dig-IN to discuss Home Grown Indiana, their heavily researched guide to the best sources of local food in Indiana.
“It’s easy to associate places like New York City with the foods it made famous,” Hutcheson says. “But aside from tenderloin sandwiches and sugar cream pie, neither Hoosiers nor the rest of the world has paid attention to foods that are truly part of Indiana culture. That has begun to change as more and more people are regaining an appreciation of what we can produce from our rich Indiana soils.”
Home Grown Indiana highlights the efforts of farmers and producers throughout the state, such as Medora-based Burton’s Maplewood Farm, a producer of 100% pure maple syrup that’s used by top chefs in Chicago, as well as Capriole Farms, a purveyor of award-winning goat cheese in Greenville.
Hutcheson cautions Hoosiers against taking their state’s natural resources for granted.
“We should all consider a longer term view as we make decisions about our economy, our environment and social equity,” he says. “Whether we are growing food, building new buildings or enacting public policies, we need to ask ourselves not only, is this good for us, but also, will this be good for our children and grandchildren?”
Dig-IN kicks off at noon and ends at 5 p.m. on Sunday, Aug. 28. Hutcheson and Barbour are scheduled to speak at 12:30 p.m. See Neil Charles' feature on Dig-IN.
Beasley’s Orchard (2304 E. Main Street, Danville) and their Heartland Apple Festival are part of some amazing memories for me. Every October of my childhood, my little brother and I would pick pumpkins at their pumpkin patch, get our faces paint at the children’s tent and beg our parents for some apple cider to warm us up. Needless to say, my opinion of the Festival is perhaps a tad biased. That doesn’t make this two weekend event a great outing for foodies and lovers of fall alike.
The boyfriend and I started our adventure by enjoying a hot lunch provided by several local organizations. Among the delectables were BBQ Pork Sandwiches, Meatball Subs, Coney Dogs, Chili Cheese Dogs and Pork Tenderloin Sandwiches.
We tried a little bit of everything, but if I had to choose, go with the Meatball Sub. The meatballs were seasoned nicely and the tomato sauce was a tangy compliment to the cheese (make sure to sit down at one of the tables because this sub can get messy). If you’re sweet tooth is calling to you, get over to the Boy Scouts’ tent and try their fried biscuits and apple butter.
We walked off our full bellies with a trip through the corn maze before taking the hayride to Beasley’s pumpkin
patch. Now, they’ve brought pumpkins up to the Orchard’s storefront if you don’t want to take the hayride, but you’d be missing out on not only choosing your future jack-o-lantern by hand, but also getting to see the Orchard’s apple trees up close and personal. The chill in the air just added to the atmosphere.
After putting our pumpkins back in the car, we went inside the Orchard’s actual storefront, which is a menagerie of home-style treats (there’s a whole wall dedicated to local jams and jellies). They sell around a dozen different varieties of apples and the bags go up to a whole peck (which is roughly 11 pounds!). We went with the Cameo, a crisp, sweet variety that is good eaten out of hand but is appropriate for cooking (I’m thinking apple sauce is going to be in my near future). We also grabbed a couple caramel apples for later on in the week.
More than anything, Beasley’s is known for their award-winning apple cider. They make it fresh every day, in house; I grabbed my gallon before they could even put it on the shelf. This year’s batch is mild, balancing the sweetness and the mulled spice so that neither overpowers the other. You can get it warm by the glass at the cider bar, but don’t be surprised if you find yourself grabbing a gallon to take home. Since the cider isn’t pasteurized, make sure to buy your extra cider at the very end of your visit so it has the least amount of time from the register to your refrigerator.
The Hendricks County Humane Society is also at the event, introducing visitors to some adorable dogs that need good homes (adoptions can be done at the event). If the cider doesn’t warm your heart, these animals will.
The second week of the Apple Festival is this Saturday and Sunday, Oct. 9 and 10, 9 a.m.—6 p.m. Admission is $5 per car. Make sure to visit an ATM beforehand; the majority of the food and activities are cash only. Go to www.beasleys-orchard.com for more information.
I’ve been told everyone is Irish on St. Patty’s Day. From what I could tell from Saturday, the same is true for Irish Fest.
Taking over the entirety of Military Park downtown, the 3 day festival had the trifecta of Irish culture: good music, good beer and good food. Even though I was assigned to work the NUVO tent for the majority of Saturday night (if you were there, I was the girl with the glasses tempting passersby with free goodie bags and copies of our always free paper), I got to experience Irishfest with the best of them.
One of the benefits to working events like this is being about to taste the food available. The choices were pretty varied (I saw fair fare like popcorn and pretzels on the menus), but I went with an traditional staple: Irish Stew. Even though it was still relatively warm on Saturday evening, I thoroughly enjoyed the hot meal. The vegetables were perfectly cooked and the flavors were spot on.
Maybe the only hitch in the meal was a piece of meat that was more fat than flesh, but it was a small bump in the culinary journey. The stew had a side of soda bread, which is usually not my favorite but it was helped by a little butter and was great for sopping up the broth.
Every person who visited our tent was really friendly and cool, but what do you expect from NUVO readers? And I need to thank Mother Nature for cooperating so well that night. As the pretty lead singer of one of the bands noted in her Irish brogue, “Being here in Indianapolis this weekend is a lot like being in Ireland… but with better weather.”
Two year ago, Oktoberfest was moved to the Indiana State Fairgrounds and it suffered for it. Luckily, this celebration of German food and culture is back where it belongs in German Park (8600 S. Meridian St.). Shaded by oak and maple trees, the Park is a lovely place for people to listen to music while eating great German food.
For me, it was strange going back. My grandmother, who immigrated to the United States in 1954, was a passionate member in Indianapolis’ German-American community. This is the first Oktoberfest since she passed away last winter. Somehow, visiting German Park and enjoying the tastes of Oktoberfest was like coming home.
If you’re looking for an early snack in the day, the soft pretzels are great. The ones at Oktoberfest are big enough to share with your sweetie. Don't forget a side of mustard; it’s a German cuisine necessity.
Claus' German Sausage and Meat Market (an establishment near and dear to my heart) provided most of the entrees. Their knockwurst was as good as ever, but the real prize was the Frickadellen, a dish I had never tried before. A cross between meatloaf and a hamburger, the Frickadellen is topped with sautéed onions on a Kaiser bun. The patty was super juicy and the onions added a sweetness and complexity to the flavors. It didn't even need condiments, it was that good.
The Damenchor (Indianapolis' German choir for women) sold delicious slices of cake and pie for dessert. Many of the lovely ladies knew my grandmother and I was happy to say hello. The chocolate cake I ate made me happy, too.
There was a variety of beer options, but I went with the Warsteiner Oktoberfest brew, which was mellow with just enough spice to give it a kick. I’m not a big beer drinker, but even I was impressed. Visitors can chose from a smaller glass, a mug or a novelty boot glass. The mug and the boot hold the same amount of beer, but how can you say no to a boot full of beer?
Oktoberfest runs Sept. 9—Sept 12 and tickets are just $5. For more information, visit www.germanparkindy.com.
I just received word that the entrancing Loon Lake Lodge has closed. Was there any restaurant more spectacular in all of Indianapolis?
First off, there was the airplane sitting on top of its roof... that's pretty spectacular.
The real treats, though, lay inside.
If you were lucky, really lucky, then nobody warned you that every 10 minutes or so, taxidermied wildlife would spring to animated movement all around you.
You could spot the animals as you came in, sitting quietly here and there, watching you.
Then all of a sudden, once you were seated and eying the menu, the room leaped to life, with animals creaking and seemingly scampering everywhere. I'm surprised there was no report of an incident where a customer pulled a gun on one of these unsuspecting beasts.
It was a little like finding yourself in a David Lynch film.
Best of all, unlike Chuckie Cheese, whose mechanical entertainers are there for your benefit, the animals at Loon Lake Lodge paid little attention to you, as if you were a visitor to their world.
Quirky setting, good food, an airplane on the roof... I grieve the passing of Loon Lake Lodge.
Sorry for my hiatus, but I've been uber-busy these past few weeks, having trekked to Chicago for the National Restaurant Association Show late last month. One of the highlights there was the growing food truck craze. Which made me wonder: Why don't we see any food trucks here? Several local chefs have threatened to take their concepts to the streets, but efforts have yet to materialize.
Part of the problem may be local food ordinances. I used to do some work for chef Ron Harris at Locally Grown Gardens, the farmers market on 54th street, and he was always being raided by local food inspectors who gave him all sorts of problems because of his non-traditional kitchen — but also because they didn't understand how he cooked things. For example, they almost banned him from making ice cream because they didn't understand that the egg yolks were actualy cooked.
We're not the only ones with local prickly food ordinances. That's a problem that's prevented trucks from taking to the streets of Chicago, of all places. According to the Tribune, chefs will take their displeasure to the City Council Wednesday, along with a "model food truck ordinance" cobbled together from existing laws. Perhaps its time for local chefs to get on board with that idea …
After undergoing a name change and some menu changes, Deano's Vino became Naptown Restaurant and Wine Bar last year in hopes of reinventing themselves and increasing business. But things haven't worked out so well, and now comes the announcement that Deano's/Naptown is officially closed.
Here's the official word posted on their website (naptownjuice.com)
Dear Friends,
It's unfortunate that our time in Fountain Square has come to an end. Our restaurant has lost its lease. I would like to give my personal thanks for all the support and well wishes through this journey. I am a man that likes to feed people and this restaurant was my dream and I am honored to have had the opportunity to serve you and I will be forever grateful.
Best Wishes,
Chef James W. Bryant
Our best wishes to Chef Bryant and the rest of the staff. Here's hoping Fountain Square gets a worthy replacement soon!
They killed off the pb&j pate before I could get there. But when Goose’s informal enoteca opens in early(ish) June, perhaps I’ll see it again.
Now, countless restaurants around the nation have used the term “enoteca” to push everything from yuppie small plates to bastardized Italian, but the term has its roots in small Italian wine stores that often sampled their drink and some food.
In her almost 10-year-old tome on the enoteca with the namesake title, food writer Joyce Goldstein helps sharpen the focus and origin of the Roman concept:
“Today, the term osteria or locanda refers to a casual establishment serving wine and food, sometimes at communal tables, usually in the countryside or in small towns. The enoteca is the urban counterpart, offering wines and sometimes food but in an even more abbreviated setting: no rooms to let, often no kitchen, and maybe a few tables.”
This is Goose’s enoteca.
Owner Chris Eley says the slightly converted downstairs will feature communal seating benches made of reclaimed wood and a makeshift bar embellished with the same material, enough to fit twenty-something people who get there first. More importantly, it will sample some of the charcuterie, olives and meatstuffs the place is known for — plus some edgier, smaller batch stuff that will only go downtstairs. And when it’s gone down there, it’s gone.
Besides the regular pig-heavy forcemeats of pates, sausages and rilletes, no small serving of good protein will be excluded. There will be fresh, crudo-style fish. And slippery, melt-in-your-mouth lardo, pure Indiana hog back fat cured in-house with truffle salt, fresh thyme, orange peel and coriander. And the moist, meaty preparation of tartare. And the slurpin’-good richness that is bone marrow. Too wash it all down, the space will feature six wines and six beers by the glass. Find something else in the retail space you’d like to open? You can do it, for what I’m told will be a miniscule (but legal!!!) corking fee.
Recall that Jordan, formally the wine steward at Goose the Market and then-imminent manager of Greg Hardesty's Recess, was shot last fall while walking his dog in his neighborhood. Those who follow the blog his family keeps on his progress know how very close he came to dying, and how much money it will take to bring him back to health, which is, of course, a battle with no end in sight.
With such a stark backdrop, it feels foolish, trite and silly to refer to this upcoming event as a celebrity chef cookout, but that’s exactly what it is. A celebrity chef cookout where the involved chefs donate their time, technique and product to the cause, completely.
The rest of the invite is in the words of Eli Anderson. Let me point your attention to a couple of things: The event is first come, first served in terms of RSVPs, which is being capped at 150. E-mail eli@h2osushibar.com if you want to get in on it.
Part of the night’s draw is a silent auction, and I believe there is opportunity for local retailers to donate product. I’ll try to update some of the chefs’ planned dishes in the coming days. But rest assured that this will likely be the tastiest and surely most karmic-boosting meal you’ll have in a very long time.
WHAT: A Backyard BBQ to benefit The Gabe Jordan FoundationWHEN: May 23rd 2010 from 3 PM to 6 PM
WHERE: 1912 Broad Ripple Ave. Indianapolis IN 46220 (H2O Sushi)
WHY: Because we love and support him
WHO: Eli and Nicole Anderson of H2O Sushi,
Dave & Krissy Tallent of Restaurant Tallent,
Ryan Nelson of The Oceanaire Seafood Room,
Johnnie Thomas of The Mandarin Orient Washington DC,
Brent & Hannah Joseph of King David Dogs,
Greg Hardesty of Recess,
Chris Eley of Goose the Market
BEVERAGES: Sun King Brewery, Three Floyd’s Brewing Company,
National Wine and Spirit, Crossroad Vintners, World of Wines, Brugge Brasserie
PRICE: $100 per person to be paid in advance
FORM of PAYMENT: Cash or Checks (made out to The Gabe Jordan Foundation)
(Credit Cards are not accepted for this event)
I mean, have you seen the new 240Sweet marshmallows at Hubbard and Cravens? They’re these big, fat, locally made marshmallows in crazy flavors. I’d been eyeing the brown chai tea-flavored fluffs since I saw them, but was dissuaded by a baristo who recommended the chocolate chip and caramel as a crowd-pleaser.
Tomorrow the local coffee chain is hosting a free coffee/marshmallow tasting at the Broad Ripple and Meridian Kessler (49th and Penn) locations. Maker-Of-The-Marshmallows Alexa Lemley will also be on hand to “toast” a variety of flavors for her guests, and several H&C coffee beverages will be sampled, too. Tasting is from 11 a.m. to 1 p.m. at Meridian Kessler, and 2 p.m. to 4 p.m. at the Broad Ripple location.
My first impressions on these delicacies is that you can taste the sugar in them more than the store-bought kind. Not that they’re necessarily sweeter, just more grainy. Apparently Chef Lemley makes as much of the product as she can — toasting her own coconut and making her own caramel, for example, instead of running to the store. She then whips up the ’mallows herself with a combo of glucose, beet sugar, gelatin, powdered sugar, cornstarch, and our favorite catchall, “natural flavorings.”
It’s worth checking out. Just don’t try to dunk the ‘mallows in your coffee or tea, ‘cause they disintegrate.