Friday, April 30, 2010

Gourmet marshmellow tasting!

Posted by Jennifer Litz on Fri, Apr 30, 2010 at 10:23 AM

Chocolate chip caramel
  • Chocolate chip caramel
So I thought artisanal donuts were the next cupcakes. Turns out, they’re marshmallows.

I mean, have you seen the new 240Sweet marshmallows at Hubbard and Cravens? They’re these big, fat, locally made marshmallows in crazy flavors. I’d been eyeing the brown chai tea-flavored fluffs since I saw them, but was dissuaded by a baristo who recommended the chocolate chip and caramel as a crowd-pleaser.

Tomorrow the local coffee chain is hosting a free coffee/marshmallow tasting at the Broad Ripple and Meridian Kessler (49th and Penn) locations. Maker-Of-The-Marshmallows Alexa Lemley will also be on hand to “toast” a variety of flavors for her guests, and several H&C coffee beverages will be sampled, too. Tasting is from 11 a.m. to 1 p.m. at Meridian Kessler, and 2 p.m. to 4 p.m. at the Broad Ripple location.

My first impressions on these delicacies is that you can taste the sugar in them more than the store-bought kind. Not that they’re necessarily sweeter, just more grainy. Apparently Chef Lemley makes as much of the product as she can — toasting her own coconut and making her own caramel, for example, instead of running to the store. She then whips up the ’mallows herself with a combo of glucose, beet sugar, gelatin, powdered sugar, cornstarch, and our favorite catchall, “natural flavorings.”

It’s worth checking out. Just don’t try to dunk the ‘mallows in your coffee or tea, ‘cause they disintegrate.

Turn to the left
  • Turn to the left

Now turn to the right.
  • Now turn to the right.

Tuesday, April 27, 2010

Three reasons you suck for missing Dark Lord Day

Posted by Jennifer Litz on Tue, Apr 27, 2010 at 8:26 PM

Phillip was Girls Pint Outs Dark Lord Day mascot. He kicked the day off with a splash.
  • Phillip was Girls Pint Out's Dark Lord Day mascot. He kicked the day off with a splash.
Dark Lord Day 2010. Wish I remembered more of it.

But that's how it goes. You get to the grand city of Munster, Indiana, at some ungodly minute in the morning, assuaged only by the hour you gain that close to Chicago and your coffee-flavored beer breakfast. The crowd of 5,000-plus puts a little wind in your sails, too.

The last two times I've gone it's been overcast and humid, but that's not terribly bad drinking weather, if you consider the alternative: increasingly ripe bodily odors in a line that doesn't quit.

I spent a couple of hours in that line to get the once-yearly manna, Dark Lord. It's Three Floyds Brewing Company's mean ol' mo'fo of a Russian imperial stout. The guy on the bottle would clearly eat you, given the chance.

For the record, this isn't my favorite style of beer — at least, not right away. At first, it's viscous as molasses, but the 12-plus percent ABV gives it lots of nasty bite. Like tequila, but not as smooth. Hot like it. The 2008 is just getting drinkable, and when I'm in the right mood, it's pretty damn good.

But you don't go to the event just for new Dark Lord beer. You go for the ridiculous counterculture that makes Sarah Palin's base look rational. And for the ever-changing lineup of American beers on tap that you might not get anywhere else.

But if you're really there for the title header, I've got good news:

You don't really need a Golden Ticket

If you don't know why you ostensibly need the Golden Ticket, I'm not sure why you're reading this — but welcome.

Golden Tickets are sold ahead of the event for people to redeem to buy up to six or so Dark Lord bottles. They're that popular.

But in fact, the moral of this story is that if missing the small window of Golden Ticket sales is your only excuse for not going, find a better one.

For example, one beer commie hippie carrying some beer version of a ticket scalper sign made it his mission to redistribute the wealth. By noon, he had succeeded in procuring seven or eight golden tickets at cost or for free. He said he was going to give them to people that didn't get any. In beervana, I like to believe that could be true.

I myself had planned to buy my bottle off my friend Tamre, founder of Girls Pint Out, who ALWAYS buys her Golden Ticket in the tiny little parcel of time they sell them after the impromptu Twitter announcement. But this year, I didn't have to buy my bottles from her. After several hours of standing in the line to buy beer — actually, an accidental occurrence — I asked the dude next to me if he'd let me use his second ticket to get into the warehouse where they were selling. He did. I got in. And bought as many as my little heart desired. Which was two.

I hope this admission doesn't make the the process more stringent next year, but I doubt it will. Handling that many people and their paper indulgences will never be that precise. Yes, Golden Ticket sales go to charity — but late people like me usually miss them anyway.

Continue reading »

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Wednesday, April 21, 2010

LEEKED! Kentuckiana edition

Posted by Jennifer Litz on Wed, Apr 21, 2010 at 8:51 PM

Ice Bar: Okay for cold beer, better for turd doodles
  • Ice Bar: Okay for cold beer, better for turd doodles
You (probably) have never heard of it before, but Tony Boombozz is a well-established pizzeria in Lousville, Kentucky. Its newer taphouse concept is coming to Indy soon, 'round U.S. 31 and 146th.

My brief review: The pizza, or the brief example I tasted of it, is a bit underwhelming. I shared a chicken artichoke pie with some coworkers. Now, I don't remember the item's exact menu description, but it should have also said, "… and a shit-ton of cumin, which renders the rest irrelevant."

The beer lineup was decent, though. Bonus: They had Dogfish Head 75 minute. Yes, they made that up by blending the 60 and 90 minute brews — but hey, it was $4.25. BBC's Bourbon Barrel stout was on tap, too. Double bonus. We could use more BBC in Indy.

The can leave the Red Stag back in 'Tucky, though. See it tucked inside that bar-top snowman? That's part of The Ice Bar. Supposedly, that strip of ice you see is designed to keep your beer frosty. Or, the bottom of it. That's good, because you don't want the rest of your big, tasty beer taste-bud-numbingly cold.

But it looks cool. Most importantly, it offers a blank canvas for finger-doodling drunkards.

In other news, StarTribune.com reported that Landry's Restaurants announced it will buy The Oceanaire chain out of bankruptcy. Landry's owns a bunch of upscale seafood restaurants like Chart House and Muer, but it also owns Rainforest Cafe.

I asked Ryan T. Nelson, chef at our local Oceanaire, what the acquisition might mean immediately for his restaurant's menu and makeup, he said he couldn't comment. I guess we'll see.

Finally, restaurateur/master of the Twitterverse Scott Wise has a sweet deal for his artistic Twitter followers. Earlier this week he put up a tweet offering free food and drinks for a year to the winner of a Thr3e Wise Men Brewing Company logo contest.

Time to whip out my design skillz. Fourthmeal, here I come.

AND REALLY FINALLY, no Kentuckiana blog would be complete a week before The Derby without a recipe for a great mint julep. So here's the recipe, with notes, from the best mixologist in the city, Zach Wilks:

As with any cocktail, balance is the key. Too much mint or simple syrup can really detract from the finished product. So here is how I do it. Always start with best ingredients available to you. I'm all about Kentucky Vintage Bourbon right now, and since it's for derby it's a good one to use. So fill a shaker with ice, pour in 2.5 oz of Kentucky Vintage, .5 Tbsp. of simple syrup and 10 nice size very fresh mint leaves. Shake the hell out of it and strain over fresh ice in a highball glass. Or, if you want to get real traditional, serve in a pewter or silver cup. Garnish with a fresh sprig of mint! I don't muddle my mint in this drink because it tends to over intensify the mint flavor, the bourbon is the real standout here. So let the ice do the bruising of the mint inside your shaker.

To see the latest progress on his upcoming Ball & Biscuit on Mass Ave, become his friend on Facebook!

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Monday, April 19, 2010

Time for a new Central Library cafe

Posted by Jennifer Litz on Mon, Apr 19, 2010 at 10:23 PM

Theres gotta be something decent to eat in this place, right?
  • There's gotta be something decent to eat in this place, right?
I’m not sure if the little eatery at the Central Library downtown is still called The Question Mark Café, or if it’s managed by the same local foodservice company as three years ago, when a former saucier from Wolfgang Puck’s had been branded as its head chef (of sandwiches and salads). I only know that few other municipal eateries upset me so consistently.

Today I ate lunch there. A side salad and diet coke came to $7.61. The main course was a tiny, square plastic box filled with wet, wilted lettuce, soggy cucumbers, some smears of goat cheese and squeeze bottle ranch dressing instead of the promised “herbed vinaigrette.” They’ve got to be making at least 100 percent profit on this stuff.

My more memorable meals at the food stand have been small, nondescript fried fish fillets dwarfed by plain yellow bread, Philly cheese steaks that smelled like plastic, and salads with dressings that tasted like smoothies. I’m not expecting a gourmet meal at the library, but I do expect the price point, taste and portion size to intersect on some level. At least to touch. Right now, they’re not even close enough to be star-crossed lovers. That’s a problem.

It’s not in line with the library’s ostensible mission. Last time I checked, which was today, the library was funded mostly by taxpayer money. It’s a municipality that’s supposed to be there for the benefit of the community, not for some third-party foodservice company to gouge the hungry students and other various and sundry researchers captive inside all those beams and glass.

Fine, you say. Bring your own damn snacks if you’re going to be marooned for a day of research in the ’brary. Except that, according to library policy, you can’t. At least, those are the rules enforced by the suits who patrol the place for contraband sandwiches, who are oddly also immune to loud teenagers like people to dog whistles.

I’m not sure how much the catering service is giving back to the library; perhaps that comprises the mysterious “miscellaneous” percentage of the library’s latest breakdown of its revenue sources. Other revenues come from property taxes (80 percent), “other” taxes (11 percent), and fines and fees (5 percent).

Some other things I’m not sure of, because the point person has yet to call me back with the answers: When the foodservice provider contact is up. Why we can’t bring outside food and drink into the library. And what percentage the foodservice provider gives back to the library.

Our patron saint of literature, Kurt Vonnegut, is turning in his grave. He was a humanist.

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Thursday, April 15, 2010

Big ‘ol dump o’ Indianapolis beer news

Posted by Jennifer Litz on Thu, Apr 15, 2010 at 10:04 PM

Recess bologna sandwich with Nonge-o brown ale at Tuesdays beer dinner.
  • Phillip Schlosberg's Blackberry
  • Recess' bologna sandwich with Nonge-o brown ale at Tuesday's beer dinner.
The beer dinner at Recess was amazing, and hosted by Scott Larrick of Norway’s Nøgne Ø Brewery — who is actually from Ohio, despite his now-perfect Norwegian (that’s what they speak up there, right?).

First off, even though “it’s not what’s on the bottles as much as what’s in them,” as Larrick so aptly quipped, the proper pronunciation is “Nyoog-ne-uh.” I think.

Second, having just come from the World Beer Cup and brewers' conference in Chicago, Larrick paid the restaurant a daunting compliment. It was along the lines of, he’d been to New York and Chicago and every other worldwide market for beer dinners, and none paired as well and did his beer as much justice as the one he attended at Recess. I think I caught Greg Hardesty blushing, but maybe it was the kitchen heat.

It was a delightful dinner. The highlight, in my opinion, were the egg udon noodles steeped in a gorgeous broth with perfectly poached mussels. Bits of ginger floated at the bottom, so clean and definite-tasting compared with the glutinous, flat noodles that lingered through several chews. Nonge’s effervescent-but-boozy tripel made everything lighter.

There are about two or three shipments of the stuff from Norway in the city, and they’re at Kahn’s and the new Crown Liquors downtown.

Tuesday night we tasted the saison, the pale ale, the tripel, the brown ale and the porter. Each was solid. My favorite was the pale ale, which was actually quite malty, amber-hued and robustly bodied for a pale, with a nose of toasted honey. Simply mouth-filling, saliva-inducing goodness. The brown was light, roasty, and delicious. The porter was that and creamy, though it seemed to lose its structure if you let it sit a bit.

*Speaking of the World Beer Cup … My friend Scott Metzger owns the amazing Freetail Brewing Co. in San Antonio, Texas. He attended that Chicago beer event last week, and sent me the run-down of a private beer dinner he attended, hosted by Fort Collins, Colorado-based New Belgium. Get a load of this beer list (note the Dark Lord 2010):

Allagash Avance/ Bell’s Quinannan Falls/ Bell’s Wild One/ Brooklyn Dark Matter/ Brooklyn Black Ops/ Dieu de Ciel! Isseki Nicho/ Elysian Perfesser/ Firestone Walker Union Jack IPA/ Half Acre Daisy Cutter/ Half Acre Ginger Twin/ Half Acre Gossamer/ New Belgium LOVE/ New Belgium Eric’s Ale/ New Belgium La Folie/ New Belgium Transatlantic Kriek/ Norrebro Bryghus/ Odell IPA/ Odell Woodcut/ Odell Mountain Standard Reserve 2009/ Piece Swinging Single/ Real Ale Devil’s Backbone/ Russian River Pliny the Elder/ Russian River Consecration/ Russian River Supplication/ The Bruery Oude Tart/ Three Floyds Dark Lord 2010

Holy ****.

Next up, Indiana's winners at the event!

Continue reading »

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Wednesday, April 14, 2010

LEEKED! The Bacon Edition

Posted by Jennifer Litz on Wed, Apr 14, 2010 at 10:16 AM

The KFC Double Down
  • Courtesy KFC
  • The KFC Double Down
*All the rage in food news this week is KFC’s new Double Down, which is a bacon and cheese sandwich. Yawn, right? Nope — the sandwich is enveloped by two fat, fried chicken patties instead of a bun. Thing looks like a hash brown eating a BLT.

The sandwich “plopped” Monday at most KFCs. "Getcha some!" like Paula Deen would say, and she has expressed excitement over the new culinary … something.

*Meanwhile, former Euphoria mixologist Zach Wilks has given me his bacon-infused bourbon recipe, which he’ll use to make something like his ol' Hamhattans when he opens his new pre-prohibition cocktail bar, Ball & Biscuit, with Trevor Belden in June on Mass Ave. Former Euphoria executive chef Brad Gates will provide small, French-inspired plates, and Wilks said the place will feature boutique wines and local craft beer, besides some from specific U.S. regions.

But the real focus will be his hand-crafted cocktails, like the Sazerac, Old Fashioned, and Gin Fizzes he wowed me with at his previous post.

Without further ado, the Hamhattan-come-“Bacon Infused Bourbon Manhattan” recipe, which Wilks sent to me via e-mail:

The Bacon Infused Bourbon Manhattan

Bacon-infused Kentucky Vintage whiskey (about 2 oz.), sweet vermouth (1/2 oz.), and a dash of blood orange bitters.

“That’s it?” I replied. Then he gave me the goods on infusing your whiskey:

Cook one pound of your favorite bacon — I prefer thick-cut applewood smoked bacon for this — and make a delicious BLT with the bacon [ed. note: NOT ALL OF IT, save some for a garnish]. This gives the bacon fat time enough to cool, so you can pour it into one bottle of Kentucky Vintage whiskey. Let the whiskey fat mixture sit in a warm place for 12 hours, and then freeze. All of the fat will freeze on top of the whiskey and can easily be removed with a spoon. All that's left is to strain through a cheese cloth until clear, and enjoy.

*Feel like eating some bacon now? Goose the Market has jowl bacon, the cheek-sourced bacon used to make Guanciale. Do yourself a favor: Eat it in Italian recipes, but don’t look at pictures of it being aged.

If you fry it up like you would regular bacon, you have a rich, cheap soul food treat. Eat it with eggs, put it in your beans to flavor them, or munch it alone.

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Friday, April 9, 2010

Homemade tortillas: The lazy man's bread

Posted by Jennifer Litz on Fri, Apr 9, 2010 at 6:04 PM

Camarero! Camarero! Theres a virgin on my tort.
  • By El Rio
  • Camarero! Camarero! There's a virgin on my tort.
What separates most American home cooks from professionals is often a lack of technique. From proper knife skills to the ability to whip up some pate a choux batter, many from-scratch tasks seem out of reach for we who feed our obliging families at no upcharge.

There's little reason for this timidity, other than a lack of knowledge. Some things, like making a good chicken stock from scratch, are relatively easy, but time consuming. Other things are quick. Like making homemade tortillas.

So I'm going to show you how. Because tacos are the lazy man's sandwich. Make some of these babies ahead of time and put 'em in the fridge, then throw in any sort of grilled meat, veggies and salsa, and people will call you guero in no time.

Quick homemade tortillas

The directions are right on the package, but just to assure you how easy it is make tortillas, I'll give you a brief overview so you actually get to Saraga or Whole Foods on 86th to buy the corn masa flour.

You'll need:

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Wednesday, April 7, 2010

Diet cake

Posted by Jennifer Litz on Wed, Apr 7, 2010 at 7:12 PM

Yep. What else would you call this "cake ball" I got at Houston's Coffee Groundz? It was delish. Perhaps they're being ironic by serving it here in the Lone Star State, where I've been since last week in celebration of Easter.

Hey, Flying Cupcake, Rene's, Tayor's — why don't you guys try your hand at one of these??? I'll take five dozen. Snacks and bite-sized everything are all the rage now.

Before ...
  • Cohort
  • Before ...

During ...
  • Cohort
  • During ...

After.
  • Cohort
  • After.

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Tuesday, April 6, 2010

Kitchen for rent (really)

Posted by Jennifer Litz on Tue, Apr 6, 2010 at 5:36 PM

Indys Kitchen will be for rent by-the-hour soon.
  • Indy's Kitchen will be for rent by-the-hour soon.
I have a solution for all you home cooks hard up for money. Come the summer, you too can achieve baking stardom like the local chefs of The Flying Cupcake or The Hot Cookie.

Unless you’re planning to exchange your consumable goods for Monopoly money, Indy’s Kitchen will allow you instant access to the licensed kitchen the Board of Health requires you to cook in commercially.

So far, William Powell, co-owner, says people have already signed up to use the kitchen-by-the-hour once it opens sometime in May or early June.

The space could have myriad uses: farmers market food preparation, catering space, baking. You can even rent storage rack space so you don’t have to haul your ingredients back and forth.

The kitchen has two full commercial kitchens with a shared cleanup area. One kitchen is more suited to catering setup and one is more for pastry-making. The catering kitchen has a 10-burner range with two ovens underneath, a deep fryer, food processor, mixer and more. Giant worktables are available, too.

But what excites me most is the possibility for tasting events. Powell says there’s a rentable dining room as well, so if someone wanted to have, say, a chef dinner, they could do it there.

Powell is owner of Monon Coffee Company, my favorite coffee shop in all the land. A mini version of the coffee shop will operate from 6 a.m. to 10 a.m., Monday through Friday. Cause let’s face it: Who wants to cook that early without coffee?

Info:

Indy’s Kitchen
317.690.9089
2442 Central Ave.
Indianapolis, 46205
http://www.indyskitchen.com/

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Monday, April 5, 2010

Red Key Tavern's Russ Settle 1918 - 2010

Posted by Nora Spitznogle on Mon, Apr 5, 2010 at 5:30 PM

Russel Settle
  • Nora Spitznogle
  • Russel Settle


Red Key Tavern owner and Indianapolis’s favorite curmudgeon, Russel Settle, died Sunday, April 4. He celebrated his 59th anniversary of owning the tavern on Friday.

He was 92.

The Red Key is a favorite watering hole for neighborhood folks and an eclectic group of creative people and cool kids. Russ was famous for his rules — no feet on the furniture or chairs in the aisle, cash only, hang up your coat, use your “indoor voice” and don’t swear. And the most honored rule: Russ is always right! Not that you ever doubted it.

He was a WWII Army Air Corp (pre-Air Force days) bomber crewman. His plane was shot down and he and the crew were on the lam for a month before they were captured. They were in a German war camp for fourteen months before they were liberated.

The Red Key is often categorized as a hole-in-the-wall or dive bar which Russ took great offence to, but it’s hard to hang a neat and tidy label on the tavern. The jukebox is full of 45s featuring boogie-woogie, Pasty Cline and Frank Sinatra. The furniture is original and has only been re-covered a few times since Russ’s ownership — not tipping back on your chair or dragging the tables pays off! The linoleum floor has a path worn to the waitress station, juke box and restrooms. The menu hasn’t changed much either, featuring cheeseburgers like your mom used to make, tenderloins, Braunschweiger (if you have to ask what is you won’t like it), BLTs and Dollie’s famous potato salad. Most nights the waitress is also the cook.

Everyone I know has a Red Key story and usually an emotional bond with the bar.

Countless relationships have stared, proposals accepted, marriages celebrated and people have been eulogized at the Red Key. Who “gets” the Red Key is a hot topic in many divorces and break-ups. Parents bring their children for their first (official) 21st birthday drink before launching them in to the wilds of Broad Ripple Avenue. There are generations of families who have called the Red Key their bar.

Not only was Russ famous for his straight-talk but his iron-clad memory. I got to see it firsthand many times. Someone would walk in a year after their last trip and Russ would remind them of a jacket they’d left on their last visit. He remembered who belonged to who’s family and birthdays and anniversaries. The first time he met me I was with my friend Aaron, which Russ pointed out is almost Nora spelled backwards. My first few visits I’d could tell that was how he was remembering my name. I loved it most of all when he’d growl “Spitznogle.”

I had the great honor of working with Russ at the 52nd and College Avenue tavern. When he asked me to work there it felt like an appointment from the governor. All those years of sitting quietly reading in the corner booth paid off.

Russ helped me get though some rough times with his “shake it off Spitznogle” advice. When CATH coffeehouse closed I was able to work there full-time which paid the rent and helped me re-gain my identity. And Russ was a staunch ally. One day I walked in for my shift to realize the only customers were a ex-boyfriend and his date. Russ was hard of hearing at that point and talked loudly. He proceeded to tell me why I shouldn't be wigged-out and it wasn't worth it; well within earshot of the date gone horribly awry.

My favorite times where the few times that it was only the two of us in the bar. We’d talk about the history of the bar, his family, a little bit about the war and gossip about customers. One memorable night he pulled out his harmonica and played for me.

Russel was very protective of his customers especially the women. One night a man sat next to me that I was not fond of. Russ set the man’s beer down at the other end of the bar. The guy told Russ he wanted to sit next to me. Russ told him no, that if he wanted a drink he could go to the other end.

Russ had a great and slightly bawdy sense of humor. I’m notoriously prudish so he enjoyed teasing me. One year I dressed as Russel for Halloween. I slicked back and grayed my hair, wore dime store glasses, a plaid shirt, dark polyester pants and suspenders. I accessorized with a comb, a pack of cigarettes and a toy gun. I tried to use as many Russ-ims as possible. Russ loved when l I dropped the toy gun in the toilet when going to the bathroom. He teased me about that until the end.

He could recite poems from memory and often had one that was perfect for the occasion. On Halloween he would recite James Whitcomb Riley's, "Little Orphant Annie." I never realized how creepy the poem was until I heard Russel recite it.

Russ and the Red Key crew are the first people that I share news with — good or bad. I have the tradition of reading anything that I have in print spread out on a table at the Red Key. I came into work after my first NUVO article was printed to find it cut out and hanging behind the bar and the Barfly comix about me is still hanging there. New jobs, promotions, relationships and family have all been discussed over that bar.

I am thankful to Russel for letting me work part-time all of these years. It has kept a roof over my head and allowed me the freedom to find a great job

I walked Russel to his car on Saturday. When we were in the sunlight I asked him I he would wait while I grabbed my camera. I fully expected him to have driven off in the minute it took to me run back in a grab it but he was still standing there and smiled when I snapped the photo, muttering "Spitznogle and that camera" as he got in his car.

Rest in peace Russel. You’re already missed.

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